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Monday, October 12, 2009

DAY 2

Philadelphia Fashion Week continued for a second night with Philadelphia University, Gar-de, and more. While opening night turned out to be somewhat of a debacle, expectations were low. Even worse was the decision by the show’s planners to have a two-hour waiting period between the Nine Days collection and Gar-de show. Despite the awkward waiting time, each presentation was a visual treat.

Philadelphia University raised the bar for student designed fashions. Attendees were treated to visually stimulating homage to the likes of Valentino, presented by one student designer, while other portions of the show included leather bound bathing suits and a bridal show.

See more photos here...      

See the rest of Philadelphia University's runway show here...

The Nine Days collection could be considered one of the most exciting denim collections to hit the Philadelphia Fashion Week runway. Filled with washes, bleaching, and ultra dark denims, the label made a very smart move when focusing on the rise of America’s obsession with thrown together looks considering that this leisurely trend hasn’t died down in the past 30 years. Not your average denim line, the brand was able to inspire both day and evening looks that transformed the models into everyday passersby in a comfortable yet expressive pair of jeans and then later into night owls with jeans any collector would envy. Of course seasonally, tights have been the biggest trend with every celebrity praising their wearability and stores following suit, jeans are now a preference and no longer the once reigning wardrobe staple.

   

See more photos of Nine Days' runway show here...

The biggest disappointment of the night would have to be Triple 5 Soul, reminding us why they went bankrupt in the first place. With cheaply designed clothes (think the Children’s Place for grown ups) the label had much to figure out before presenting anything to their once admiring public. For those wondering, camouflage is rarely ever in season, yet for some reason the brand decided to use the theme in their poorly constructed apparel.

   

See more photos of Triple 5 Soul's collection here...

Never straying from their "denim is best" ideology, a mix of dark washed jackets and jeans accompanied the likes of salmon and odd mash ups between solids and polka dots. It’s sad to see that their attempt to push their way back into the fashion industry was so unplanned and underdeveloped. Whoever styled the finishing looks would have saved face by mixing the sets instead of purposely making all of the looks so color coordinated. While the brand was once known for premium urban trends, their recent collection could have easily hidden that fact.

When one thinks equestrian, your typical riding boots, tights, and well tailored blazer comes to mind. Yet Gar-de was able to transform that deep rooted philosophy to introduce a line that was full of intrigue and just the right amount of glam. With slacks that zippered from the toes to the pelvis and a mix of denim and black tuxedo pants worn with button downs and hoodies, one would think the label was trying too hard. But their effortless cool depiction of style and sophistication allowed sheer class to prevail. Whoever thought a bedazzled jumpsuit would be a hit? Yet that was exactly what happened as each look sauntered down the runway, proving that less was more for any evening or daytime look.

See Gar-de's complete runway collection here...

Layering was kept to a minimum while form-fitting leather jackets were brilliantly transformed into refined causal wear. This minor transformation of classic pieces spoke volumes on the designer’s ability to take fashions that would be more suitable for a Main Line shopper and alter them into Center City must haves. Even tanks didn't take a standard form, as each one transformed into silk butterfly tops leaving nothing to the imagination. That said, the label designs looks to be worn right off the runway, however they would look best on those with more of a gaunt figure.

  

See Gar-de's complete runway collection here...

 S. Love took the phrase "all black everything" and ran with it. With a video installation shown on the jumbo screen preparing the spectators for the runway show, a blurry video of the designer dressed in one of her pieces posed for what looked like a mock photo shoot. The first model on the runway came out wearing the dress featured in the video. Perhaps this is the brands attempt to show that the line wasn't just meant for the cameras.

What was so unusual about the collection? If Wednesday Addams grew up in Paris with access to fashions that were never judged, this would be her wardrobe. Black beanies rested on top of ghostly painted models, while Tyra Banks-esque poses completed the "dark" looks.Leather was the most commendable material on the runway, it's no wonder one could overhear whispers of GaGa and a bit of S&M inspiration thrown around. However if each individual piece was to be mixed with something less controversial, this collection could actual be worn in real life, and not just the elevated platform of the runway.

   

See S. Love's runway show here...

Speaking of platform, high-end fashion was given a whole new meaning as models were forced to tread in duct tape heels that bounded their legs to their ankles almost making it impossible to walk, let alone pose. Now that's new age fashion!


DAY 3

The closing evening of Philadelphia Fashion Week was nothing short of a spectacle.

The Art Institute of Philadelphia, Philadelphia University, and Moore College of Art & Design all competed for The Student Design Award, given to the most innovative and marketable collection.

Each show had superb implementation and spoke volumes on what to expect from these future style mavericks. Philadelphia University beat out the other competitors for the award, showcasing their talents in both design and execution. The rest of the evening was filled with runway shows topped off by a performance from The Hustle and an unexpected cameo from Tu phace, who had the crowd dancing in their seats and around the catwalk the night before.

The Strangefruit runway collection had an abundance of cowl neck dresses and shirts paired with jackets bearing uneven shoulders that stuck out almost immediately. If it wasn’t for the decadent jewelry or the leather bound dresses, the show would have been memorable in the most unflattering way.

   

See Strangefruit's entire runway show here...

The evening styles saved most of the visual misshapes and the line should also be applauded for actually showing off the appropriate Fall/Winter season with longer hem lines and thicker materials that are still fashionable but can still be worn during the upcoming months.

Sa Va celebrated vitality and free flowing spirit during their runway show. Barefoot models paced the platform with a peaceful serenity. The models wore almost no makeup and their simple tassel accessories helped to carry out the clean look of the brand. The basically off-white line would make any yoga enthusiast or spa staple feel confident walking out from a session. The show ended with a full canary wrap dress made out of sheer cotton, perhaps an ode to the sun or just a reminder that the most basic apparel can transform your aura.

   

See more Sa Va here...

Marina Makaron Moscow stopped the show with bold prints that carried a coherent look for both male and female fashionistas. Transforming pinks, yellows, and greens into wearable art that could be played down or dressed up the show was more of a how to tutorial on scarves. A few day dresses with the same print motif besieged the catwalk, which did become redundant after the eighth model. Of course the show did have a little more excitement as it began with a performance by a tap dancer accompanied by the topless male model parading around the catwalk while layered in strategically placed scarves.

  

See more Marina Makaron Moscow...

Melani von Alexandria outshined all the designers of the evening by simply thinking outside the box, while still staying within the realm of realistically wearable art. Traditional Japanese pieces fused with Western silhouettes sauntered down the runway, while headpieces reminiscent of chocolate shavings adorned each models head. The collection was prim yet sensual. Slick ponytails allowed for a casual yet inviting look that added to the already phenomenal a-line dresses. Utiliing rich silks while straying from typical eastern prints allowed for a rational approach on the two cultures (think obi’s for tighter figures). Full winter coats with raised collars adorned the models, giving way to a whole ensemble fitting for any true trendsetter.

   

See the rest of Melani Von Alexandria's runway collection here...

 

 

 

Posted by Cecilia Achempong @ 1:41 PM  Permalink | File Under: Reviews | | fashion | Post a comment
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